( ENSPIRE Fashion ) Designer Maurice Gattis Shares Textiles Ghana Fashion
Fort Mosé 1738 is fashion-made in Africa and adopted by US audiences, presenting a modern handcrafted design. They will serve bold new looks for men and women in St. Augustine, Florida, now a historic state park. The first premiere pop-up featured a representative selection of contemporary suits, dresses, and jumpsuits. American Professor of Social Work Maurice Gattis conceptualized the idea of an American collection of contemporary African fashion after a chance encounter during a trip to Ghana in 2021. Designer and CEO Gattis formed a friendship with his driver, Nathaniel. What began as one ride evolved into a tight connection after the weeklong trip and a meeting with Nathaniel’s wife, Faustina, the local couturier. Not long after, he realized the time was right to introduce American audiences to fashion looks hand-sewn from exceptional hand-woven African fabrics.
The look of African fashion has long been a favorite of celebrities from Idris Elba to Gwen Stefani and Rihanna, not to mention Jill Biden and Jeremiah Owusu-Koramoah. Fashion looks from Ghana have occupied the Hollywood spotlight with the Ghana-born Director of The Color Purple, Blitz Bazawule, wearing fashion statements from his homeland on the red carpet. Made from brilliantly colored, contemporary textiles, printed, and hand-woven from West Africa, Fort Mosé 1738 looks are made not only from Kente cloth. They are enhanced with golden threads, hand-woven silk, and cotton, with modern prints reflecting the flora and fauna of Africa.
Maurice emphasizes, “Once you interact with the pieces, you will fall in love with the colors. We encourage self-expression, and so far, everyone who has been wearing the line feels they have taken on a fresh confidence. In fact, ‘loud luxury’ – bold prints, compelling textures, and a lack of subtlety – is what is trending for 2025. The nuances of the bold colors and patterns Fort Mose 1738 represents transcend standard visual representation; only after you see and touch the Fort Mosé 1738 looks can you fully grasp the excitement and energy they bring.”
What inspired you to make such a significant career pivot from social work to fashion, and how do you see your social work background influencing your approach to fashion design and business?
I haven’t made a significant career pivot, as I maintain a full-time position as an associate professor with a research portfolio. In many ways, I view this fashion endeavor as an extension of social work, especially from the empowerment perspective. I collaborate with artisans in Ghana who utilize their already refined skills to enhance their economic standing by creating a collection that expands the market for their talents by blending traditional West African textiles with modern silhouettes.
Can you elaborate on the connection between the brand’s aesthetic and the story of Fort Mosé and how you translate that historical narrative into contemporary fashion pieces?
I chose to name the company after my visits to Fort Mose in St. Augustine, Florida, and to Ghana a few years ago. Fort Mose was a place where people from West Africa lived freely in what would become the United States, so the name feels like a fitting tribute. I was deeply moved by the story of the ancestors of people from the African Diaspora, starting in West Africa and ending up in Fort Mose as formerly enslaved individuals. I contemplated how that narrative could be reimagined in fashion, striving to reflect the complexity of identity, even amid disruption.
The people in Ghana recognize that their ancestors were enslaved alongside African Americans. Attempting to express this through fashion resonates with the contemporary community, acknowledging that we are both fully American and fully of African descent. The clothing embraces a blend of West African textiles and Western silhouettes, connecting the past to the present while envisioning a hopeful and celebratory future.
“Loud luxury” is a term you’ve used to describe the current fashion trend. How does Fort Mosé 1738 embody this concept, and what distinguishes your designs in a market increasingly filled with bold prints and vibrant colors?
The Fort Mose 1738 pieces are hand-crafted in Ghana in small batches, and that process is luxurious. But the representation of luxury – sustainable and ethical – continues with the textiles; I hope that people can appreciate the beauty and intricate details of the fabrics we select for the collections, especially the hand-woven Kente, still the fabric of African royalty, with a history that goes back to 12th century Africa. In December of 2024, Kente was added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Our fashion genuinely stands out with the story of Fort Mose and the fusion of the cultures that will continually evolve and create new meanings – our clothing provides a window into history as it looks towards the future.
What are your future goals for the growth of Fort Mosé 1738, and how will it impact the artisan community, fashion brand, and social impact?
For Fort Mose 1738 our goals are to continue to increase brand awareness and extend sales beyond our online store into retail stores and boutiques. Our intention as we grow is to continue to shine a light on the story of Fort Mose, the skills of the artisans making the clothing, and the historical significance of the concept. We look to engage customers who discover fresh, bold confidence in wearing these unique, high-quality styles, which are fashion-forward, of course, but still very wearable.
Fort Mosé 1738 has garnered a dedicated following since its debut at DC Fashion Week. With a virtual showroom and now a physical presence through the St. Augustine pop-up, the brand is expanding its reach. Gattis’s goal is to foster the growth of the textile fashion community in Ghana. Explore the Spring 2025 collection on fortmose1738.com. The Florida pop-up began on February 7 and will continue until March 7, 2025. It opens Tuesdays through Sundays from noon to 4 p.m. at the St. Augustine Art Association.
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